PP&R specialise in many notoriously "Valiant" repairs. Without a doubt the most common of these repairs is the chassis-rail repair. After many years of seeing and re-repairing ill-repaired chassis rails we are providing this feature on how we rectify this problem.

The most common area of repair is the drivers side (RH) chassis-rail, this area is subject to many design faults, many of which relate to the inherent problem of internal rail rust. This area is subject to alot of abuse as it has the steering box mounted off it. A combination of insufficient actory fitted reinforcement gussets & lack of drainage leads to this area rusting literally from the inside-out. I hate to think of how many cars have been destroyed as a result of this problem, but often see lame attempts to fix them that ultimately cause more trouble than good.

CHASSIS REPAIRS THE PP&R WAY

Here at PP&R are passionate about chassis-rail repairs, we know exactly what happens and more importantly what WILL happen if the repairs in this area are not tended to correctly. Some vendors will offer you "repair sleeves", don't waste your time or money on these short-term bandaid repairs. Sleeving the suspicious area will only lead to further troubles and ultimately can lead to serious injury or worse.

It's no secret that Chrysler Valiant vehicles have long been tortured by drivers side chassis rail rust problems. Most of these issues are a result of the steering box mounting flaw, stress and ofcoarse any classic cars worst enemy, time ! Some chassis rail problems can also be reflected to passengers-side but it not as prolific and usually show different signs although the repair process is almost identical.

THIS IS NOT A TUTORIAL

The infomation and images provided below shows a detailed description of the repair process that PP&R use in order to correctly repair these areas. In short form this entails removing the suspect areas & replacing, esuring a long-term repair and structural integrity.

If you would like further infomation relating to these repairs or would like to book your car in to be repaired, please feel free to contact us directly with your enquiry. CLICK HERE

DISCLAIMER : Please be advised that the infomation contained within these pages are used for descriptive purposes only and is not to be used as an "instruction" on what to do. PP&R specialists are experienced technicians, it is not advised that any inexperienced individual undertake such a repair, seek the advise/services of a reputable professional to assist with this repair.

Assess the work area. The overall size the repair is different with every car. Larger repairs can require support of front chassis rail sections to ensure the repair retains the correct chassis position. Diagonals are measured to ensure accuracy.

All brackets and associated components are removed to provide a clear work area. Brackets are then trimmed of all excess metal and chemically cleaned, ready for welding back into position.

This image indicates the size of this particular repair. This is a large repair @ approx 600mm long ! A previous repairer in their wisdom welded the K-member to the rail, this has done nothing to assist the area at all and has simply made this repair just that little bit harder.

The area of repair is cut open and cleaned of all debris and rusted gussets. This picture does not show it but there are normally three upright light pressed steel gussets spto welded onside the rail. On repairs such as this they are noramlly non-existant, rust has had their way with them. The section is then cleaned and prepared for the repair stage.

As above, pictured from engine compartment.

It is not uncommon for the debris in these areas to actaully fill the inside of the rail to the top. Here is an image of some of the rust scale that has been removed from the repair area.

As mentioned, there are three gussets fitted from the factory. The are light 2mm thick pressed steel items. PP&R opt for heavier replacements and fit an additional two for premium structural integrity. The box section used has a 2.5mm wall thickness and is much stronger than factory fitted items.

The repair area is repaired in half section, leaving it open for internal reinforcement and ease of access. The gussets are placed in locations that offer the best structural properties. Each gusset is mig-welded into place. The rear gusset is modified to accomodate a fabricated crush-tube for steering box fitment. Each gusset has a drain which allows any water to pass through it to the next gusset, enabling proper drainage. At this stage an anti-corrosive is introduced.

From the engine compartment you can see that the heat marks from the welded gussets, this rail is stronger than ever.

The ouside cap is welded into place. To ensure that the gussets are welded also, 1/2' holes are drilled where the gussets are located adn plug welded.

The work area is no prepared for fitment of brackets and lugs.

All associated components are re-fitted in their correct locations. It is imperative that the steering box location is correct.

The work area is then prepped for post-repair work , eg: Lead-wiping. If the cosmetics of your rail are important, lead wiping can used to dress the repaired area, looking at this image you would be hard pressed to tell it has been repaired at all.

The area is then etch primed, ready for paint.

Here is the complete repair, primed. Lastly a drain hole is placed under the steering box bracket, this combined with each gusset drain will allow water to exit the rail as easy as it got in.

Please contact us with your enquiry : CLICK HERE