PP&R specialise in many notoriously "Valiant" repairs. Without a doubt the most common of these repairs is the chassis-rail repair. After many years of seeing and fixing poorly repaired chassis rails we are providing this feature on how we rectify this problem.

The most common area of repair is the drivers side (RH) chassis-rail; this area is subject to several design faults which relate to the inherent problems of insufficient structural strength, internal rail prone to rust, along with extra load bearing. This area is subject to a lot of forces because it is one of the major supporting structures of the front end and additionally, it has the steering box mounted from it.

Remember that these bodies started life as an American design and originally their steering boxes were mounted on the opposite side but on the K frame rather than the chassis rail. So too, the idler arm was K frame mounted, so the entire steering system was integral with the K frame, also called the K member. In making our cars right-hand drive Chrysler Australia moved the steering box to a strengthened area on the chassis and the idler arm to a bracket mounted on the opposite chassis rail.

The increased side forces on the rail, coming from the normal steering loads which occur during use give this area a hard time; in combination with an insufficient number of factory-fitted reinforcement gussets and a lack of water drainage leads to this area rusting literally from the inside-out. I hate to think of how many cars have been destroyed as a result of this problem, but often see lame attempts to fix them that ultimately cause more trouble than good.

CHASSIS REPAIRS THE PP&R WAY

Here at PP&R, we are passionate about chassis-rail repairs - we know exactly what happens and more importantly, what WILL happen if the repairs in this area are not carried out correctly. Some vendors will offer you "repair sleeves". Don't waste your time or money on these short-term, band-aid repairs. Sleeving the suspicious area only covers up the problem and while giving temporary strengthening and a cosmetic fix to the area, will only lead to further troubles and ultimately can lead to serious injury or worse.

It's no secret that Chrysler Valiant vehicles have long been tortured by driver side chassis rail rust problems. As rust never takes a holiday, it slowly and relentlessly weakens the metal from the inside out. This is compounded by the steering box mounting flaw, extra load stress and of course any classic car’s worst enemy, time ! Some chassis rail problems can also be reflected to the passenger side but this is not as prolific and usually shows different signs, although the repair process is almost identical.

THIS IS NOT A TUTORIAL

The information and images provided below show a detailed description of the repair process that PP&R use in order to correctly repair these areas. In short form this entails removing and replacing the damaged areas, ensuring a long-term repair and structural integrity.

If you would like further infomation relating to these repairs or would like to book your car in to be repaired, please feel free to contact us directly with your enquiry. CLICK HERE

DISCLAIMER : Please be advised that the information contained here is used for descriptive purposes only and is not intended to be used as an "instruction" on carrying out a home repair. PP&R specialists are experienced technicians and we advise that inexperienced individuals do not undertake such a repair and to seek the advice/services of a reputable professional to carry out the repair, preferably a repairer with experience on this particular problem.

Assess the work area. The overall size of the repair will be different with every car. Larger repairs will require support of the front chassis rail sections to ensure the repair retains the correct chassis position. Diagonals are measured to ensure accuracy.

All brackets and associated components are removed to provide a clear work area. Brackets are then trimmed of all excess metal and sand-blasted, ready for welding back into position.

This image indicates the size of this particular repair. This is a large repair at approximately 600mm long! A previous repairer welded the K-member to the rail for some reason we will not go into; this has done nothing at all to assist the area and has simply made this repair just that little bit harder.

The area of repair is cut open and cleaned of all debris and rusted gussets. This picture does not show it but there are normally three upright, light pressed steel gussets spot welded inside the rail. On repairs such as this they are normally non-existent: rust has had their way with them. The section is then cleaned and prepared for the repair stage.

As above, pictured from engine compartment.

It is not uncommon for the debris in these areas to actually fill the inside of the rail to the top. I have pulled out almost 1kg of dirt, rust and loose metal from this area. Here is an image of some of the rust scale that has been removed from the repair area.

As mentioned, there are three internal gussets fitted from the factory. They are light gauge 2mm pressed steel items. PP&R opt for heavier replacements and fit an additional two for premium structural integrity. The box section used has a 2.5mm wall thickness and is much stronger than the factory fitted items.

The area is repaired in a half section, leaving it open for internal reinforcement and ease of access. The gussets are placed in locations that offer the best structural properties. Each gusset is MIG welded into place. The rear gusset is modified to accommodate a fabricated crush-tube for the top bolt of the steering box mount. Each gusset has a drain which allows any water to pass through it to the next gusset, enabling proper drainage. At this stage an anti-corrosive is introduced.

From the engine compartment you can see the heat marks from the welded gussets, this rail is far stronger than before.

The outside cap is welded into place. To ensure that the gussets are welded also, holes are drilled where the gussets are located and plug welded.

The work area is now prepared for fitment of brackets and lugs.

All associated components are re-fitted in their correct locations. It is imperative that the steering box location is correct.

The work area is then prepped for post-repair work, eg, Lead-wiping. If the cosmetics of your rail are important, lead wiping can be used to dress the repaired area. Looking at this image you would be hard-pressed to tell it has been repaired at all.

The area is then etch primed, ready for paint.

Here is the complete repair in primer. Lastly, a drain hole is placed under the steering box bracket. This combined with each gusset drain will allow water to exit the rail as easy as it got in making it much more difficult for moisture to accumulate and rust to start.

Please contact us with your enquiry : CLICK HERE